New England’s Influence on Fashion: Americana Prep
The Romance of Preppy America
When you think of fashion in America I’m sure your mind immediately pictures busy New York streets during fashion week. Or maybe you think of L.A.with its Beverly Hills mansions and Rodeo Drive designer shops. I’m sure places like Boston, Massachusetts or Portland, Maine don’t cross your mind. As a fashion lover from Maine who is endlessly infatuated with my home region of New England, this always made me feel a bit defeated. I wanted to be where the magic was, where the fashion was vibrant and the clothes exquisitely sourced vintage pieces. Yet, I’ve always wanted to stay in the Northeast by the rocky ocean coasts, small colonial houses, and stubbornly kind people. It is through my studies in school and my own journey of developing personal style that I’ve learned just how important of an influence New England and its culture have been on American fashion. In fact, it's the source for some of your favorite current day “aesthetics” like “coastal grandmother”, “old money”, and “Fisherman core”. So let’s dive into how this rustic and simple region of the U.S. has left a lasting impact on the fashion identity of the nation.
The Old Money Look, alternatively the “Ivy League Look”
As we know, New England was the first major region of settlement in America. Development spread through the Northeast towards New York and eventually South. However, this primary concentration in the Northeast led to many of the country’s wealthiest families originating from this region. Some of the names synonymous with American “old money” such as Vanderbilt, Rockefeller, and Carnegie. Similarly, the concentration of population during America’s infancy led to some of the country’s oldest and most prestigious academic institutions being born here. In fact, four of America’s eight Ivy league schools are in New England (Massachusetts, Vermont, Connecticut, and Rhode Island) while the other four are also in the greater Northeast region (New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania). There are also numerous long-standing prestigious preparatory schools for young boys and girls that have followed in style to the Ivy League schools they feed into. These college campuses were places where students from the region’s wealthy families would come to study to be lawyers, doctors, and professors. It only makes sense that their proximity on campus, their geographic region, and their shared socio-economic statuses lead to the creation of a culture and aesthetic style to represent them. Thus was born the “Ivy League Look” or what TikTok likes to call “Old Money”. In the 1930s the Penny Loafer was introduced by G.H. Bass, it became an instant hit. Varsity sweaters adorned with school logos were worn during sporting competitions and soon became common to represent school pride. The lingering influence of British tailoring showed through khakis and chino pants often paired with the loafers. As well in well-tailored wool blazers. Integral to this look is well-made clothing, due in some part to clothing being a more artisan work at the time. Quintessential to this look are high-quality fabrics like wool for sweaters or blazers, or crisp cotton for dress shirts. As well as rich, neutral colors for understated elegance. This style being born from wealthy American families has made it a foundation for a classically American look, as it was worn by people who were prominent American figures. Those wearing this look often represented the idea of American sophistication.
The Greatest American Designer
One of the greatest patrons of this Ivy League look that became an icon of Americana style was none other than Ralph Lauren. Originally from the Bronx, New York, Ralph began simply by designing men’s ties. This soon turned into a full men’s collection, which drew inspiration from the rustic style of New England’s coastal towns. As well as the romantic lifestyles of America’s Gilded Age families who spent summers playing tennis, golfing, boating, horseback riding, and lounging in resort towns. Styles included the khaki chino pants, polo neck t-shirts, graphic sweaters of coastal motifs, and tennis sweaters. During the mid 20th century Ralph Lauren took off as a clothing and lifestyle brand that represented nostalgic New England lifestyle. Not only did it become heralded by the people who embodied that lifestyle, but it also became an aspirational look for people worldwide of American simple sophistication. Ralph Lauren helped to internationalize and establish this aesthetic as a classically Americana.
Fashion Born from Function: Coastal Grandmother and Fisherman Chic
One of my favorite characteristics about the Northeast is the simplicity of life which in turn creates a simplicity in style. Here, clothing isn’t about show, it's about practicality and function. People need warm jackets for the winter, boots that can withstand the snowy weather, layers that keep you warm out on a boat, or layers that keep you cool during hot winter days. Not to mention the same wealthy families that gave way to the “Ivy League Look” typically all came from New England and had coastal residences in resort towns like Newport, RI, Bar Harbor, ME, or on Cape Cod, MA. Therefore, this element of functionality was naturally integrated into their style as well.
The style labelled as “coastal grandmother” today is really just the summer wardrobe of the people who live in these resort towns. The white linen pants and button ups made light material to wear on hot summer days. Cashmere and knit sweaters were easy layering pieces for chillier nights or afternoons on the boat out on the windy ocean. Light blue stripes on pants and shirts have long since been a symbol of nautical life with their connection to French fishermen. It is this fashion born out of practicality that really makes this style so iconic and timeless. True style, in my opinion, is rooted deeply in authenticity. Sadly, I feel we often lose today in a globalized world with rapid trend cycles.
Similar to the coastal grandmother, is the “fisherman chic” look that is predicted to be popular in 2025. It takes inspiration from the wardrobe of those living in fishing towns along the coast. Their wardrobes needed styles fit for the dynamic climate by the ocean with its wind, rain, and snow. Rain boots and yellow rain jackets were necessities for being out on the rainy and misty ocean. Wool cable-knit sweaters wear a fashion brought from fishing communities in England, Ireland, Scotland, and throughout Europe. They made for warm layers during harsh winters or out on the frigid ocean. Then we often see garments with fish, lobster, and boat motifs. While now these images serve as nostalgic symbols of this lifestyle, they were once decorative symbols of culturally significant items.
L.L. Bean and the Outdoors
One of the brands that embodied this utilitarian fashion was L.L.Bean. It was founded in Maine to create sporting apparel and gear for avid outdoorsmen. Their creations were for hunting, fishing, camping, and all other activities done in the Maine woods. Their famous styles include items like the Bean Boot: A two-tones winter boot made for snowy days and rugged terrain. Or their Boat and Tote bag. A canvas tote made to carry all items needed for a day out on the boat. Their rugged jeans, warm fleece pullovers, and even moccasin slippers have remained quite popular over the decades. Other brands that capture the lifestyle of New England include J. Crew, Land’s End, and even Patagonia or the North Face.
True Style comes from Authenticity
Perhaps my greatest learning from writing this, and my desired takeaway for you readers is that true style comes from a place of authenticity to your reality. What I believe makes this classic Americana prep style so timeless is that it was derived from everyday lifestyle. It carries nostalgia for literally a whole way of being, it’s not just for the sake of fashion. It wasn’t meant to be a display of wealth or make a statement to anyone. The concept of trying to recreate specific outfits or to buy senseless items just for the sake of dressing on trend kills the very essence of what makes it stylish. To have true style you must truly embody what you wear, not simply dress in order to represent an aesthetic. This is why we love style icons like Carolyn Bessette Kennedy who do more than just wear their clothes, they live in them. Their clothes are conducive to their lived experience. So, if you are looking to find and develop your personal sense of style, think of where you come from, your hobbies and interests. Try dressing in a way that is not only aesthetic, but feels authentic to your everyday life and how you see yourself.
